Friday, May 4, 2012

MHE Magnetic-Hybrid Engine

Today I setup new plan for green technology to come true. At least in the field of day transportation technology - automobiles. Imagine a classical 3-door hatchback, 105 HP 1.4 liter engine. Average city consumption is 10 l/100 km (approx. 23 mpg).

Now let's convert this engine with my latest technical innovation, called Magneto-Hybrid engine. First few words about M-Hybrid engine.  

M-Hybrid or Magnetic-Hybrid Engine (MHE) 

MHE is a fusion of dynamic magnetic field amplifier, based on Perendev engine with some significant improvement, which make it usable, then brush-less variable electric DC motor, and shift-step magnetic clutch. All of the above is packed into a 6 cm (2.5 inch) thick round housing, size of a thicker clutch. The STATOR of MHE is built on 0,7 cm (1/4 inch) thick metal plate, which has fastening holes ready made to fit screws inbetween vehicle's transmission box and engine, so it can be mounted inside in place of clutch. Existing clutch goes out, no needed anymore, and in its place comes MHE engine. MHE's shift-step neodymium magnetic clutch replaces standard clutch, while having in mind it is far from classic clutch, but it can transfer just enough torque to drive under average driving conditions.

Now, how it works? 

The MHE is plain simple device, but still sophisticated enough to just fit its role as a clutch, electric engine and transition device. By default, MHE's shift-step clutch is in OFF position, meaning petrol engine driving axle rotates freely. The starting moment is provided by electric powered variable DC motor, which has approx. 90 kW of power and full torque even at start.
As you can imagine, vehicle start is propelled by electric engine, so we don't need high torque transfer via clutch, because MHE electric engine propels transmission axle directly. After batteries power drops down to 50%, petrol engine starts, revs to computer controlled RPM and stays on as long, as battery power is less than 70%. Petrol engine RPMs are computer-controlled, but never higher than predefined RPM for the momentary speed. That's because of combined driving mode, where vehicle can be powered both engines, so pet engine may kick-in without annoying transition spike. So as long as petrol engine can keep up with filling batteries AND as long as you do not press gas pedal more than 1 inch deep, vehicle is powered by electric motor. Petrol engine may even sometimes stop, if it is of no use for filling batteries or accelerating.
Gas and brake pedals have additional 0.8 - 1 inch "green zone", meaning: - if you accelerate nicely, pressing gas pedal only inside this green zone, the primary motor will be electric motor; but when you press gas pedal over the "green zone", petrol engine kicks-in and adds aditional 105 HP to your vehicle. At the same time shift-step magnetic clutch switches to ON and transfers power from engine driving axle to transmission box - when braking, there are two modes, NORMAL and BAS PANIC mode (BAS = Brake Assistence System).
In NORMAL mode braking pedal only activates battery recharging system, applying moderate braking force to driving axle only. This decelerates vehicle quite a bit, but is more compared to applying handbrake, then to normal braking. If you pass the green zone, normal braking occurs.
In BAS PANIC mode, which is triggered by fast depressing gas pedal and quick shifting to brake pedal, system reacts wit BAS assystence, precharging brake hydraulic system with pressure prior to actually pressing the brake pedal. This is normal in all modern vehicles.

Converting the vehicle 

Conversion is done by removing the clutch in whole, both parts of it, and inserting MHE in its place. HE adds 0,7 cm (1/4 inch) to the system, meaning vehicle's motor and transmission box will be 1/4 of inch more apart. In my vehicle this is within tolerance and no hardware needs to be adjusted. ...except of fron transmission box seat fastening, which can be easily adjusted to new dimension. Also screws (between engine and transmission box) need to be longer, but this is not a problem. Next step is gas and braking pedal adjustment, which both need to be converted. BRAKING pedal needs separate sensors and a bit deeper free-zone (green zone), while GAS pedal is converted into fly-by-wire, completely computerized system, where tinny DC motors are turning gas flywheel, and pedal itself is only on sensors. This part I won't describe here in details.
The most sophisticated is engine EEPROM adjustment. Fortunately local guys from Chip Tunning company are well skilled for this program and they provided me valued parameters of the engine. We passed needed parameters into my CPU controller, and provided some parameters back. Of course it is far from ideal solution, has quite a lot of flaws and mistakes, but for testing it will do.
Main goals are to control engine RPM, calculate normal RPM from current speed and gear position, and of course to incorporate battery recharging with ABS system. The latest was the toughest job and we still do not know exactly how to do it without BOSCH engineering support.


After quite a lot of testing and tuning and testing and tuning again, we managed to set some remarkable improvements:
  • city consumption dropped from average 10 l/100 km (23 mpg) to unbelievable 5.5 l/100 km (43 mpg)!!!  This is almost 50% lower consumption!
  • acceleration was drastically improved, because car actually now has double horse power 
  • Ok, the driving experience is quite bad, transitions are kicky, when steped to the floor you have a feeling like front end would like to tear off and run for itself...but hey, it's a start! 
You are welcome to read more and GET INVOLVED with MHE Magneto-Hybrid Engine development by visiting my web page about the subject.  The above story is fiction, but it is mostly based on real facts from my research work on magnetic powered engine. The engine itself is far from above described form, but I am working on it and I already found the BASE principle which works!

Would you donate few dollars?

To continue my research and develop a real machine, based on my theory, I will need at least 30.000 EUR. Please, if you can donate at least few bucks, I will be very happy!
Of course you can always call me or drop me an email, and I'll be happy to keep you updated with the latest stage of the project. Please, do, your interest would mean a lot to me!

1 comment:

  1. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.